FLip-iT Hair Systems by: HEDY-MARIE
NO CLIPS | NO GLUE | NO WEAVES NO DAMAGE
FUNDAMENTAL PROPERTIES OF HUMAN HAIR
The average human head has about 100,000 hair follicles. Its absence is termed alopecia, commonly known as baldness. Anthropologists speculate that the functional significance of long head hair may be adornment, a byproduct of secondary natural selection once other somatic hair had been lost. Another possibility is that long head hair is a result of Fisherian runaway sexual selection, where long lustrous hair is a visible marker for a healthy individual (with good nutrition, waist length hair—approximately 1 meter or 39 inches long—would take around 80 months, or just under 7 years, to grow). This would explain why long head hair (in both sexes) is viewed as attractive even now.
Any woman who appreciates good looks and great hairstyles also recognizes the merit in taking good care of it. It surely makes taking good care of hair a lot easier and purposeful, if one understands the hair structure, its characteristics, the condition of the scalp it grows on, etc. The structure of hair and its growth Hair is made of strong elastic strands of protein called keratin and in chemical terms is composed of oxygen, iron, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulfur, carbon and phosphorus. The exact proportions of these chemical elements vary with sex, age, type and color of hair. The sources of hair are very small tiny pockets in our skin and scalp known as follicles. These follicles are not evenly spread on the scalp but are found together in groups of two to five each. Every follicle follows a life cycle of its own producing six inches of hair a year for as long as four years before it falls out then starts all over again after a short period.
The basal tip of the hair in the scalp is known as papilla which is a small out-growth of the skin shaped like a doorknob and lying at the tip of the follicle. The papilla contains the blood vessels to supply nourishment to the hair. During the active period the new cell growth pushes the older part of the hair away from the papilla until the hair falls out. It is the pattern of cell growth at the papilla which determines whether hair grow straight wavy or curly. The growth pattern usually becomes uneven during the adolescence when the hair growth is at its peak. It declines as we grow older. The cell growth pattern can change otherwise also due to illness, drugs, pregnancy, etc. Though hair strands look as singular fibers, each hair is constructed in three different layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair which provides protection to the inner cortex layer. It is made up of flattened, hard, horny cells. When the cuticle breaks and dislodges at the end of the hair, the result is split ends. Improper care and frequent use of harsh chemicals on hair damage the cuticle. The cortex is the second layer. The qualitative properties of strength, elasticity, pliability, direction and growth pattern, width and the texture of hair depend on the composition of the cortex. The cortex is composed of fibers twisted together like a rope.
It is the cortex which gives the hair its color. The presence of the four natural pigments black, brown, yellow and red are logged in the cortex in varying proportions, and the air spaces in the cortex determine the color and shade of hair. The excess black and deep brown pigment is what gives oriental women the dark hair they possess. Lastly, the medulla is the unimportant innermost layer which is composed of soft keratin. Medulla is often not present in some hair. Hair that lacks medulla is no worse than hair that has medulla. The characteristics of healthy hair It may surprise you, but till date, no cosmetologist or trichologist has been able to comprehensively and conclusively describe all the characteristics of healthy hair. Some of the most common characteristics of healthy hair quoted are:
1. Thick and dense.
2. Fine and silky, which means not too oily or rough.
3. Luster-filled, having a shine and gloss.
4. Pliable, capable of setting and styling.
5. Full-bodied and not limp or lank.
FUNDIMENTALS ON HAIR CONDITION
While describing the condition of hair, it is important to keep in mind, the hair growth. Unless the growth is proper and regular, the hair condition is considered affected. Regular care of hair is in fact much the same as taking care of skin. An effective hair-care discipline involves cleansing, toning and
conditioning routines carried out with religious regularity. Another important aspect of effective care is the use of proper hair-care products. Different types of hair need different hair-care products. The use of wrong products is detrimental to the hair. Cleansing is the foremost routine in daily hair care. The purpose of cleansing is to wash away excess oil on hair and scalp and clear the hair follicles off the debris of unexfoliated dead cells. Proper cleansing encourages healthy hair growth. After cleansing, the scalp and hair need the toning exercise. The toning of scalp and hair is achieved by gently massaging the head. This helps in stimulating and invigorating the blood circulation required for the healthy growth of hair. The most important part of hair-care is conditioning. It is a restorative routine.
If the hair is excessively stripped of moisture or oil due to harsh cleansing, sun or application of harsh chemicals such as perm lotions, etc. , the conditioning routine aims at restoring and correcting the imbalance. The kind of conditioning required depends entirely on the physical condition of the hair.
Swelling is one of the most damaging conditions of the hair. It loses flexibility, natural bounce, elasticity, and strength and is much easier to break. The acidic-based permanents will swell the hair in a moderate 15%-25%. The alkali-based permanents will swell the hair up to 300%. On our own hair there is a microscopic layer of natural oil which guards the hairs from swelling and keeps the hairs moisture at the usual levels (10-11.5%), even though the relative humidity in the air (25-90%) is much higher.
When chemically stripping the cuticles, the oily layer is stripped from the hair and it loses the natural protection. Swelling occurs on a regular basis and is one of the main reasons the hair is so vulnerable to breakage. Normal moisture content of hair is 10%-11.5% (This depends on many variables, such as moisture in the air, type of hair, previous chemical treatment, diet and much more).
When moisture decreases, hair becomes straw-like and is easy to identify such hairpieces even by nonprofessionals. Moisture is one of the most important factors in determining the physical (strength and elasticity) and esthetic properties (bounce, flexibility, etc.). When hair is fully wet, the elasticity may increase in 25%, but the strength will increase up to 300%. One major reason for hair breakage is the combing forces applied. While shampooing, towel drying and conditioning the hair, one must stroke the hair in one direction.
During combing, the hair is stretched and will break when stretched 30%-35% more than its original length. After the hair is stretched 17%-20% longer than the original length, there will be irreversible damage and it cannot bounce back to its natural length. For non-cuticle hair, the numbers are much scarier.
FUNDIMENTALS IN HAIR SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONERS
Hair has a negative charge. Shampoos have a negative charge so that the shampoo doesn’t adhere or absorb onto the hair. Conditioners to have a positive charge so that the conditioner does adhere and absorb onto the hair without leaving deposits. Hair products should have the same level of charge as hair.
Products for non-cuticle hair should have the same level of charge as non-cuticle hair.
Conditioners must reduce the friction between two strands of hair. For treating non-cuticle hair, they must isolate one strand of hair
without leaving deposits. Conditioners do not permanently increase strength or elasticity. It is a common fib that we all take at face value. Temporarily,
conditioners will deposit moisture and moisture will temporarily increase strength.
Regular shampoo must clean the surface of the cuticles, a tough protective layer consisting of 75%-80% protein. Regular shampoos on non-cuticle hair act similar to peroxide on an open wound. The detergents burn and dry out the hair from the inside. Shampoos for non-cuticle must clean the exposed layer usually found underneath the cuticles that are now stripped. The under layer (the “B” layer or exo-cuticle) is very delicate, which is why regular shampoos fail by cleaning too harshly.
The surfaces of cuticle and non-cuticle hair do not resemble each other and the difference between the two can be measured and must be measured in order to even begin discussing improving the issue of non-cuticle hair. Usually, non-cuticle hair appears shinier than regular hair and leads us to believe that it is healthier. The reason is that the smooth and even surface reflects light at a higher concentration and therefore is brighter. Cuticle hair with its scaled uneven surface scatters the light in wider angle of reflection, appearing duller.
Most hair we have worked with responds best to frequent cleansing.
This insures secure bonding, keeps the hair soft, and helps prevent “bunching” and tangling.
Braid your hair prior to washing and conditioning. Start washing at the scalp. Make sure you get the roots thoroughly clean, then work the shampoo down through the braided ends. You will need to rinse for a
longer period of time. Pay special attention to the root area and rinse until your scalp and hair is squeaky clean.
CONDITIONING:
There are several conditioners used by the recommended to our clients. The one thing to remember is to never, never, never apply any of them to the scalp. Begin the application 4 - 5 inches away from the attachments, the work down through the braided ends of your hair. Always use a “rinse-out” conditioner or reconstruct after shampooing. Sometimes, “leave-in” conditioners are also necessary, and should be applied in the same manner. If you simply “dump” these products on the top of your head, and work or rinse them through your hair, they will find their way to the points of attachment. The oils in these products will gradually permeate and soften the Fusion Bonds or soften and loosen the hair inside the crimp bead of the Crimped Method of the extensions. This could result in shedding or loss of the hair extensions, and create difficulty during the removal process. The same precautions apply when using “spray-on” conditioners. Again; check with your extension artist before applying any product to your hair that are not on your list of recommended products.
ALLERT:
Commercial hair needs conditioning often it does not receive the natural oils that your own hair does and requires conditioning with the right products daily. Often lighter hair has been pre-bleached and/or body waved for it’s desired style and this requires treatment for your extensions. We can only guarantee softness and tangle-free extension hair when you are using products we recommend and that have been purchased from HEDY-MARIE BOLLYWOOD HAIR EXTENSIONS
WATER:
Quality of water is another important factor which could noticeably affect the condition and appearance of your natural and extension hair. Soft water is preferable for washing all hair, natural and commercial. Washing with hard water (containing lots of chemicals and minerals, especially iron and/ or sulphur) may result in breakage, tangling and discoloration. If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, consult your extension artist to determine if you have a water related problem. You may find it necessary to treat the water supply that you are currently using to wash you hair.
Exposure to salt water may not affect the attachments, but it is very harsh on commercial hair. Wash and rinse immediately after submersing your hair in salt water. Avoid exposure to these types of water whenever possible. Don’t stop having fun, simply pile your hair on top of your head. You’ll look marvellous!
BRUSHING, SLEEPING, EXERCISE & OTHER MISC. MAINTENANCE
Having your extensions always look terrific requires proper grooming. This starts with brushing, combing, and separating them. The extensions will not “fall out” when these steps are done correctly. When you brush the extensions, hold the mid-shaft of the commercial hair and start brushing the ends first. If you have tangling, this will alleviate any discomfort and undue stress on your hair and scalp. You should brush and comb up to the point of attachment. Use your fingers to feel between each extension and any signs of matting. Do this on a daily basis. Your natural hair will grow out as normal, and you will decrease the risk of damage during the removal process. The proper styling tools are important. Consult your hair extension artist for the best combs and brushes for grooming your hair extensions. In most cases it is not advisable to use round brushes in long hair.
Many normal hair styling techniques can be used with commercial hair. Blow-drying and hot curling will not damage your extensions, however, do not place a curling iron or any other hot styling tool directly on the Fusion Bonds. This is an adhesive and will melt.
Braid your hair before sleeping or exercising to minimize tangles and reduce stress on the extensions. Satin pillowcases also help minimize tangles, so go ahead…splurge. You deserve it!
Never sleep on your extensions when they are wet. This is especially critical if your extensions are done with commercial Asian or Indonesian hair. These types of hair are highly processed. They may tangle to such a serious degree that complete removal of the extensions may be necessary. Severely tangled hair is usually impossible to comb out. European hair can also be susceptible to this type of tangling, so don’t risk it.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
If you are experiencing a problem with your extensions, call your hair artist immediately. Most serious complications can be averted if addressed right away. Do not attempt to remove or alter the extensions on your own or seek assistance from another hair stylist, salon, or extension artist without consulting your extension artist first. Your hair extension artist is not responsible for any damage sustained to your hair if you don not allow her to work with our extension exclusively, or by a colleague she has recommended. If, at any time, your extension artist makes a determination that wearing one or both of these systems are not a compatible extension process for your hair or scalp, they will suggest that the extensions be removed, either permanently or for a given period of time. In such a cases, removal of the extensions will be at the client’s expense. The artist reserves the right to refuse performing the service again, if removal of the extensions may not be necessary and the artist may opt to simply minimize the quantity of extensions or choose an alternative method.
Every client experiences hair extensions differently. For some clients it is an easy, relatively pain free experience. Even when properly applied, most clients experience an initial period of adjustment which may last 3 - 5 days. Soon after, the hair extensions will feel like your normal hair, only better!
In some rare cases, a client may experience a high level of discomfort due to an overly sensitive scalp. Removal of the extensions might be the only solution to eliminate this this client’s discomfort. In such a case, the extension artist and/ or salon is not responsible for financial reimbursement of this and related services. You, the client, have received the benefit. The extension service was provided in good faith and in reliance of both, the information provided by you on the Client Questionnaire, and the hair extension artist’s professional observations. Unfortunately, even the careful planning and thorough consultations, there is no way to guarantee that each and every client can tolerate wearing any form of hair extensions.
FUNDIMENTALS ON PROPERTIES OF HUMAN HAIR
The moisture content of non-cuticle hair is usually around 9.5%-10.0% This does not mean that you will not be able to find non-cuticle hair with over 10.5% moisture content (a very good figure incidentally, even for normal hair). Most of the hair ventilated into custom-made hairpieces sold in the US is sourced through India. Much of it is collected from monasteries located throughout the country. The largest and most famous monastery is in the south of India. Indian women donate their hair as an offering to their God as a sign of modesty. It is their understanding that it will be sold by the monks for a substantial sum of money that will be used to finance schools, hospitals and other publicly favored facilities. But not all hair that finds its way onto the market is the same - and this is where we encounter our first problem. During the collecting and sorting of the donated hair it is divided into two groups:
Remy hair: Hair that has been cut and maintained with the roots aligned and bound together at the top of the bundle. These bundles are carefully preserved throughout the export process and arrive at the factory still intact. Remy hair is relatively easy to process and the damage inflicted during de-cuticalization is slight.
Non-Remy hair: Hair that does not have its roots aligned. It may have been collected off the floor, or there may be some other reason they were unable to keep the roots together and running in the same direction. This hair is sold at a much cheaper price than Remy hair. Once the hair arrives at the factory, it is treated in a hydrochloric acid bath to remove the cuticle. A word of warning - hydrochloric acid is extremely hazardous. Non-Remy hair requires a higher concentration of acid since the cuticle runs in both directions. This frequently results in hair with very low moisture content that appears dry and straw-like. Moisture is critical to good-looking hair. Human hair usually contains 10.5% - 11% moisture (measured in a controlled environment of ISO 40% - 63% moisture). Non-Remy hair has trouble retaining this vital moisture. The de-cuticalization process itself is often conducted inefficiently. Some bundles of hair are only partially processed. Others are over-treated or under-treated, which contributes to tangling problems and limp or lifeless hair. Non-Remy hair dries at a much more rapid rate and quickly loses its luster and body. Non-Cuticle hair means hair that has been fundamentally damaged. If you use hair care products made for normal hair, you will be doing a major disservice. Regular conditioners are formulated to condition the cuticle layer, a very durable layer that is over 30% protein. Instead, you should be using a conditioner formulated for the under-layer without cuticle. This layer is made up of only 3% protein (10 times less!) and requires a more powerful lubricating system. The lack of a protective cuticle layer has other consequences. It allows everything to be easily absorbed into the hair – and lets vital moisture out again. Cuticle and Non-Cuticle hair are different product types with different maintenance needs. Each one requires its own specialist product.
Moisture is the single most important factor in determining the way your hair looks. When moisture drops below 10-10.2% (depending on the type of hair and the level of environmental humidity), hair will look like brittle straw as opposed to supple green grass. The critical moisture level is the difference between a fresh slice of bread and one left on the counter for 3 days. In the example of the straw or the stale slice of bread, if we apply the slightest pressure, they will break. The same pressure on the fresh slice of bread or the green grass shows us how malleable these materials could be. Likewise, any pressure put on dry human hair, as opposed to well-moisturized hair, will result in breakage. Dry hair leads to breakage, especially with repeated combing applied in a localized area [the crown]. Moisture = StrengthAn average strength properties reading for Indian non-cuticle hair with a diameter of 0.055mm would be 0.22 gn/m². An average result for the same type of hair from the same bundles, but completely soaked with tap water would be 0.66 gn/m². A normal value for such hair would be around 0.32 gn/m². (gn/m² stands for Giganewtons per square meter, which is a measure of pressure. For human hair, these figures explain the fiber’s strength – the amount of pressure it can withstand before breaking.)
The important lesson here is that moisture - any type of moisture - will increase the strength of the hair by up to 300%. Tests conducted have shown that plain water is as effective as any conditioner or leave-in moisturizer. For example, try wearing your jeans after washing them, while they are still soaking wet and feel the roughness of the fabric. This has to do with the swelling and increased strength of the fabric when wet. Until the water evaporates, the denim will be significantly stronger. The same goes for hair. The role of conditionersConditioner will add strength, but only temporarily, just as water will. Now we are getting to one of the major trade offs between conditioner and water: Water will evaporate much faster, but will not leave deposits that will weigh down your client’s hair. Conditioner will evaporate much more slowly and contribute to the strength of the hair for a longer time, but will leave deposits that may weight down the hair. In hot desert climates such as in Arizona and Nevada, it is extremely important to maintain the moisture of the hair, especially if the client spends any time in the sun. Just a few minutes of ultra-violet exposure on treated hair is enough to make a significant impact. In these conditions, a very light leave-in conditioner is highly recommended. If the client is not inclined to buy more products, give or sell him a very small mist bottle (2 oz will be sufficient) filled with water and have him mist his hair a few times a day.
FUNDIMENTALS OF HAIR DEFINITIONS
However, as an educational service… and perhaps a warning… I’d like to offer a brief primer on the advantages and disadvantages of each type of hair and explain the cost differences and the reasons for them. I’ll also answer the question, “As long as it feels good, looks good and doesn’t tangle, why do I care where the hair originated?
The first question all new customers ask is where did the hair come from?
· Origin: China, Eastern Europe, Russia and India
· Grade: Cuticle, Non-Cuticle, Virgin, Processed, Single Drawn, Double Drawn, Remy and Non-Remy
· Type: Caucasian, Asian
ORIGIN
Chinese Hair (aka Asian Hair): A thick and coarse fiber that is naturally straight and dark brown to black in color.
Advantages: High Quantity, Durability and Low Cost. It is the strongest human hair and is able to withstand multiple chemical and mechanical processes. It is easily mass-produced making it a low cost item. It is the most popular hair in the industry because it is comfortable to process at the manufacturing level and there is no shortage of supply. Ventilating a hairpiece does not require as much skill or care as with cuticle hair.
Disadvantages: Poor Quality. Chinese hair requires extensive chemical processing to output hair that simulates European texture, color and body. The majority of the hair is collected and processed as double drawn, non-Remy hair that requires heavy-duty chemicals to remove cuticle layers. It is still at a high risk for severe tangling problems because the cuticles are large and the layers are dense. The thick strands reflect light differently and appear 3 times as large next to Caucasian hair.
Common Use: Inexpensive off-shelf wigs, hairpieces and machine made hair extensions.
Indian Hair (aka Asian Hair, Italian Hair): A variety of fiber types from fine and straight, medium thick with body wave and curly to thick coarse hair. “Italian hair” is actually Indian hair that has been processed in Italy or Spain and then sold at premium prices.
Advantages: High Quantity, Good Quality, Variety and Low Manufacturing Cost. Indian hair is popular to use for custom made hairpieces because it can be made to resemble European hair. Although prices for Remy Indian hair increase every 2-3 months, it is still available in the less expensive non-Remy form. The Indian hair fiber is small in diameter compared to Chinese hair and after chemical processing can feel and look just like European hair. Finally, a great attribute of Indian hair is that it comes in a full range of textures and body.
Disadvantages: Low Quality and Higher Retail Cost. Indian hair still requires quite a lot of chemical processing to make it appear as European hair. And the efforts to maintain the integrity of Remy hair and/or buy the best quality in India can increase prices closer to European hair. To reduce time and materials, many manufacturers choose to work with non-Remy Indian hair, which must undergo the same processes as Chinese hair that results in a poorer quality. Indian hair is also known to have split ends; lice and most exporters handle the hair badly.
Common Use: The Remy hair is often produced as European or Italian hair for custom-made wigs and hair extensions. The non-Remy hair is processed for custom-made hairpieces and less expensive wigs and machine and hand made hair extensions.
European Hair (aka Russian Hair, Caucasian Hair): A fine to medium density fiber that is naturally straight to slight wave and available in a variety of natural colors, most commonly dark blonds to medium browns. The Virgin colors will often be streaked with lighter shades or the ends will be much lighter than the roots due to weathering.
Advantages: High Quality. True Caucasian hair, whether originating from Russia, Eastern Europe or even the United States, is the best quality for the European and American market. The fine textures and natural colors eliminate the need for extensive processing and can often be sold as is (virgin hair). It easily matches the density of Caucasian customers so the hairpiece or extension blends in with their own hair.
Disadvantages: Low Quantity and High Cost. It has always been an availability problem and is becoming more difficult to source lengths longer than 15 inches and of a good quality. Limited availability makes the European hair a valuable item. The care that must be taken at the manufacturing level, as the fiber is fragile in comparison to Indian and Chinese hair, adds to the overall cost of working with European hair. Usually those that choose to work with this hair want it as close to its virgin state as possible, so much care and skill must be taken when ventilating a wig or hairpiece to keep the roots in one direction and properly trimmed to avoid tangles.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Preferred hair type by production companies
for the film industry.
GRADE
Cuticle Hair (aka Remy Hair, Virgin Hair): Cuticle hair can refer to all hair, no matter the origin. It defines the state of the fiber and quality. The cuticle layers have not been chemically altered and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running opposite directions.
Advantages: High Quality. Hair with cuticles usually has the feel and look of natural hair. It retains dye colors and perms better than processed hair and lasts longer through normal wear and tear because the cuticles act as a protective layer for the rest of the fiber.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Tangles. Cuticle hair is considered a higher grade of hair and the time and care during production make it a more expensive hair. If not properly handled or cared for before and during the life of the hair replacement or extension, it is prone to tangle. (Although it costs the manufacturer more to process hair to non-cuticle, many have the opinion that cuticle hair is more expensive. They are confusing the cost of ventilating cuticle hair with the hair process cost. Non-cuticle hair is a more expensive hair but easier to ventilate. Cuticle hair is a less expensive hair but requires greater skill to ventilate.)
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Can only be manufactured by factories that know how to work with cuticle hair.
Non-Cuticle Hair (aka Processed Hair): This hair type can also refer to all hair no matter the origin, including European. The cuticles have been chemically processed to remove the first few layers and fuse the remaining layers. The roots and tips can be mixed in opposite directions.
Advantages: Low Hairpiece Manufacturing Cost and No Tangles. Less labor time when making hairpieces or wigs and less hair required per unit. If cuticle process is done correctly, this is a permanent process and used to prevent tangles even if the roots and tips are mixed in opposite directions.
Disadvantages: High Hair Manufacturing Cost and Poor Quality. Unfortunately, this type of hair is usually mass-produced in large factories using harsh chemicals that greatly degrade the hair. Also the hair purchased for non-cuticle hair is usually non-Remy hair. When the chemical process is applied poorly and the hair starts to tangle, it tangles severely. Dye colors and perms do not last and the overall damage to the hair creates a very short life for this type of hair.
Common Use: Low to medium priced hairpieces, machine-made extensions and wigs.
Virgin Hair (aka European Hair, Cuticle Hair): All hair types no matter the origin. Usually refers to European hair as Chinese and Indian hair is rarely sold in their original colors and textures. This is hair that has not been chemically altered at any time and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running in opposite directions.
Advantages: High Availability and Low Hair Manufacturing Costs. When it is truly virgin hair, the manufacture has very little preparation to perform before selling it. The lack of chemical processing leaves the hair in a healthy and natural state resulting in a longer life for the finished unit.
Disadvantages: Low Availability and High Cost. The dwindling availability of good virgin European hair, especially in lengths longer than 15” has made it an expensive commodity. There is still quite a bit of hair to find, but most of it is very old hair that has a musty odor and tangles very easily. Unfortunately, most Russian exporters are selling this type of hair.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions.
Processed Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Non-Remy Hair, and Asian Hair): All hair types can be chemically processed (cuticles, color, texture). Usually the term processed refers to non-cuticle hair and its most common form is non-Remy hair. If handled well by the hair manufacturer, processed hair can retain much of its original quality properties.
Advantages: Variety. The hair manufacturer is able to chemically alter the cuticles, color and texture of the hair to simulate European grade hair and offer multiple color and textures to the customer.
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Costs and Low Quality. The hair manufacturer must apply multiple chemical processes to the hair. Each process lowers the quality of the hair and shortens the life of the finished piece.
Common Use: All types of wigs, hairpieces and extensions.
Single Drawn Hair (aka Cuticle Hair, Virgin Hair, Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that appears like a ponytail because all the short lengths of regrowth hair are kept in the bundle. Many a novice buyer thinks the shorter lengths are split ends. Different manufacturers sell bundles of hair in single drawn form, but sometimes split the percentage of short hair and sell at a higher rate. They may decide to take out perhaps 50% of the shortest lengths and leave the rest in the bundle.
Advantages: High Availability, High Quality and Low Manufacturing Cost. Single Drawn Remy hair is much easier to process the cuticles than Double Drawn Non-Remy hair because it requires less chemicals and processing time. This leads to a higher quality type of hair. The shorter lengths make the bundles appear tapered, therefore more natural. (Many prefer this type of hair. For example, one famous actress insisted that her wig be made with single drawn hair because the shorter lengths give it the perfect look.)
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Cost. The ratio of short hairs to longer hair within a bundle is usually greater, which causes
a high amount of loss and waste. The manufacturer must purchase higher quantities to account for the wastage.
Common Use: Medium to high quality hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions.
Double Drawn Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Non-Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that is all one length. There are no shorter lengths of hair present, which creates a very smooth and polished look. Due to expense and availability with Remy hair, Non-Remy Processed hair is usually sold double drawn. The term refers to a mechanical process that draws out all the shorter lengths from a bundle, and then draws again to realign the top of the bundle.
Advantages: High Quality for Remy Hair, Low Cost and High Availability for Non-Remy Hair. One length creates a seamless silky curtain of hair that looks picture perfect. It gives the illusion of very healthy hair that has never suffered normal wear and tear.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Low Availability for Remy Hair. Hair grows and breaks and regrows so that a natural head of hair contains several different lengths of hair. When a ponytail of hair is donated or sold, the bundle tapers down to a point. If the bundle is 18” in length and you draw out only the strands that are 18”, you are left with only a few strands of hair that represent maybe 10-15% of the bundle. The rest of the bundle contains the shorter regrowth hair. It would take 10 kilos of single drawn 18” hair to make 1 kilo of double drawn 18” hair. This makes it very expensive and undesirable for the manufacturer who is now left with 9 kilos of shorter hair. It is much more cost effective to offer double drawn non-Remy hair, but the blunt one length look makes the hair appear synthetic.
Common Use: From Non-Remy hair: Low cost, off the shelf hairpieces and wigs. From Remy hair: High priced custom wigs and hairpieces.
Remy Hair (aka Cuticle Hair): Hair that was carefully bundled at the roots from the moment it is cut from donor and maintained throughout production – the cuticles run in same direction. This hair is usually processed to non-cuticle, but the root direction is maintained.
Advantages: Low Hair Manufacturing Cost, High Quality. The cuticles are not always removed for Remy hair, therefore lowering productions costs and time. If the cuticles are processed, it is much easier than non-Remy hair due to less chemicals and processing time. The reduced chemical processing reduces the level of damage that leads to a relatively higher percentage of moisture, as opposed to other types of chemically treated hair. This prevents the straw-like appearance that happens with first few months.
Disadvantages: High Cost, Low Availability and High Hair Manufacturing Costs. For unknown reasons, the temples that collect the hair do not take care to keep the roots and ends sorted correctly; therefore the resource of non-Remy is much more than Remy hair. Remy hair with cuticles require smaller batches and careful processing during production to avoid matting and tangling the hair during bath circulations.
Common Use: High Quality, custom-made hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions. (Our lab tests on many hairpieces submitted to us by customers have shown that the units were actually made with non-cuticle non-Remy hair, although they were told that it was Remy hair.)
Non-Remy Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Asian Hair): Hair that was cut and collected from the floor so that roots and ends are mixed. To solve the inevitable tangling, the cuticles must be chemically removed. Non-Remy hair is sold in Double Drawn form.
Advantages: Low Cost. The reasons factories in the Orient prefer to buy this type of hair are for two reasons: 1) It is much cheaper than Remy hair, 2) you can bleach and dye several kilos of hair in one batch without worrying about matting during circulation, thereby lowering the manufacturing costs significantly.
Disadvantages: Low Quality. The hair must undergo heavy chemical processes to remove cuticles. As a result the hair becomes very dry over a short period of time. The proceeding bleaching and dyeing reduces the diameter of the hair, creates dry course hair that eventually splits and cracks along the fiber. The tips are already vulnerable naturally due to years of growth and weathering. In Non-Remy hair the tips are running both directions so the entire bundle suffers split ends and breakage. There is also uneven distribution of fiber thickness since some roots are at the top and some at the bottom of the bundle, which makes it resistant to combing.
Common Use: Medium to low priced hairpieces, wigs and extensions.
TYPE
Caucasian: Russian Hair. Very small resources in Poland and Romania.
Asian: Chinese and Indian Hair. Very small resources in Philippines, Vietnam and other small countries, but the quantities are so small that they are not really considered.
Clearly hair that is intended only to be worn for a short period cannot cost as much as hair which was expected to be permed, color corrected, and thickened routinely over its 12 to 18 month life span. Cheaper hair is likely to be lower quality hair. So is it better to rotate poorer quality hair more frequently or pay a little more for premium hair that will last longer? It is not only the issue of longevity. A poor quality product will always be a poor quality product.
Hair factories have a choice of many different grades and sources of human hair. The highest grade is of European origin, usually from Eastern Europe. This is the most expensive hair available anywhere and the longer lengths are limited in supply. Next comes Indian hair, which in many respects, with the exception of color, can resemble European hair. Finally there is a Chinese hair, known for its strength and affordability.
Top quality European hair can cost up to 10 or 15 times as much as the cheapest Chinese hair. Expectedly, the price differences are most dramatic in the longer lengths. Price variations for short hair are much closer. The cost of goods is not the only consideration. Factory managers also have to maintain close relationships with their overseas suppliers and the cost of travel, ongoing contact, and the business infrastructure necessary to accurately place and track regional orders can be considerable. So the search for economies is inevitable and you need to know where those savings are likely to happen – and who is going to be affected by them.
A client who is replacing his hair system every 4 to 12 weeks is unlikely to receive exactly the same hair he got in the past. Professionals should be aware of those differences even if their client is not. If the client used to wear European or Indian hair, the first point of difference may be the diameter (denier) of their new hair. The hair that is most likely to be used in high-turnover system comes from China and has a thickness of 0.1 mm and up on average. As a result, it is not going to have the same texture, luster and manageability as European hair, or even Indian hair, even after decuticalisation.
Furthermore, it is likely that the color palette has had to be changed and this means removing much of the original, dark hair pigmentation and re-dyeing the hair, usually with a fabric die, to the desired shade. While most factories have perfected this technology, it is nonetheless an assault on the hair, and it becomes more vulnerable no matter how gentle the color correction process may have been.
But there is a bigger risk. In order to handle the increasing volume of hair orders, ever-accelerating deadlines and the constant pressure to reduce costs, factories may seek operating economies, some of which may compromise hair quality. For example, small, undisciplined factories could extend the interval between changes in the acid baths during the removal of the hair cuticle.
This may seem trivial, but there is a minimum concentration of active ingredients necessary to effectively remove the cuticle. Anything less will fail to soften the ragged ragged cuticle edges. Any more, and it would dissolve away the hair’s entire outer protective layer.
When a factory tries to cut down on chemical ingredients, labor, or quality control procedures, the effects may not be seen until the hair system has been worn by its new owner for several weeks. If they are lucky, the poorer hair quality may not be noticed at all before the hair system is replaced. However, it only takes one or two dissatisfied clients and years of goodwill will go out the window!
HAIR CONDITION
The first priority is to instruct your clients to maintain their hair better. Teach them to use the right shampoos and conditioners. Unfortunately, in today's saturated market, it is difficult for most people to determine what products are actually beneficial to the hair and which ones are damaging. For example, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) is a harsh detergent which actually dries the hair, yet most shampoos contain SLS, sometimes in concentrations of up to 10% by volume. Turning to conditioners, most of those sold to the public are not appropriate for the hair used in hair systems because of a marked difference in the surface energy of hair that no longer has its cuticle. Using the wrong conditioner will coat and weigh down the hair without delivering the expected benefits. Contrary to popular belief, the key function of a conditioner is to reduce friction between adjacent hairs, preventing the loss of vital hair cells, the generation of electricity both of which impact the hair's longevity and manageability. Moisture retention is a benefit that was added at a later stage in the development of conditioners as scientists came to understand the physics of hair growth. Even today's best conditioner can only retain moisture in top quality hair for 2 to 3
hours. Damaged hair, or over-processed hair may lose its moisture in half that time. However there are a few conditioners specifically formulated for processed hair, but without your advice, your clients are unlikely to be able to find them.
If your client plans to buy a conditioner in his or her local drug store or supermarket, encourage them to select one that states on the label that it is for "Light blond hair" or for "Damaged hair”. The surface energy of light blonde hair at 36-38 mega neutrons approximates the surface energy of processed hair (42 mega neutrons). For comparison, the surface energy of regular, growing hair is 30-32 mega neutrons. A sophisticated (obsessional?) client might try calling his or her cosmetic company to request the surface energy range of the hair their shampoo or conditioner is designed to react with. Alternatively, they could request the surface tension of the shampoo or conditioner itself to determine its compatibility with their own hair type. Unfortunately most of the time, they will find that the manufacturer does not have this information and probably does not even understand the question. This reflects the fact that most research dollars today go into fragrance, color and other cosmetic attributes, not the science of hair care.
The average human head has about 100,000 hair follicles. Its absence is termed alopecia, commonly known as baldness. Anthropologists speculate that the functional significance of long head hair may be adornment, a byproduct of secondary natural selection once other somatic hair had been lost. Another possibility is that long head hair is a result of Fisherian runaway sexual selection, where long lustrous hair is a visible marker for a healthy individual (with good nutrition, waist length hair—approximately 1 meter or 39 inches long—would take around 80 months, or just under 7 years, to grow). This would explain why long head hair (in both sexes) is viewed as attractive even now.
Any woman who appreciates good looks and great hairstyles also recognizes the merit in taking good care of it. It surely makes taking good care of hair a lot easier and purposeful, if one understands the hair structure, its characteristics, the condition of the scalp it grows on, etc. The structure of hair and its growth Hair is made of strong elastic strands of protein called keratin and in chemical terms is composed of oxygen, iron, nitrogen, hydrogen, sulfur, carbon and phosphorus. The exact proportions of these chemical elements vary with sex, age, type and color of hair. The sources of hair are very small tiny pockets in our skin and scalp known as follicles. These follicles are not evenly spread on the scalp but are found together in groups of two to five each. Every follicle follows a life cycle of its own producing six inches of hair a year for as long as four years before it falls out then starts all over again after a short period.
The basal tip of the hair in the scalp is known as papilla which is a small out-growth of the skin shaped like a doorknob and lying at the tip of the follicle. The papilla contains the blood vessels to supply nourishment to the hair. During the active period the new cell growth pushes the older part of the hair away from the papilla until the hair falls out. It is the pattern of cell growth at the papilla which determines whether hair grow straight wavy or curly. The growth pattern usually becomes uneven during the adolescence when the hair growth is at its peak. It declines as we grow older. The cell growth pattern can change otherwise also due to illness, drugs, pregnancy, etc. Though hair strands look as singular fibers, each hair is constructed in three different layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair which provides protection to the inner cortex layer. It is made up of flattened, hard, horny cells. When the cuticle breaks and dislodges at the end of the hair, the result is split ends. Improper care and frequent use of harsh chemicals on hair damage the cuticle. The cortex is the second layer. The qualitative properties of strength, elasticity, pliability, direction and growth pattern, width and the texture of hair depend on the composition of the cortex. The cortex is composed of fibers twisted together like a rope.
It is the cortex which gives the hair its color. The presence of the four natural pigments black, brown, yellow and red are logged in the cortex in varying proportions, and the air spaces in the cortex determine the color and shade of hair. The excess black and deep brown pigment is what gives oriental women the dark hair they possess. Lastly, the medulla is the unimportant innermost layer which is composed of soft keratin. Medulla is often not present in some hair. Hair that lacks medulla is no worse than hair that has medulla. The characteristics of healthy hair It may surprise you, but till date, no cosmetologist or trichologist has been able to comprehensively and conclusively describe all the characteristics of healthy hair. Some of the most common characteristics of healthy hair quoted are:
1. Thick and dense.
2. Fine and silky, which means not too oily or rough.
3. Luster-filled, having a shine and gloss.
4. Pliable, capable of setting and styling.
5. Full-bodied and not limp or lank.
FUNDIMENTALS ON HAIR CONDITION
While describing the condition of hair, it is important to keep in mind, the hair growth. Unless the growth is proper and regular, the hair condition is considered affected. Regular care of hair is in fact much the same as taking care of skin. An effective hair-care discipline involves cleansing, toning and
conditioning routines carried out with religious regularity. Another important aspect of effective care is the use of proper hair-care products. Different types of hair need different hair-care products. The use of wrong products is detrimental to the hair. Cleansing is the foremost routine in daily hair care. The purpose of cleansing is to wash away excess oil on hair and scalp and clear the hair follicles off the debris of unexfoliated dead cells. Proper cleansing encourages healthy hair growth. After cleansing, the scalp and hair need the toning exercise. The toning of scalp and hair is achieved by gently massaging the head. This helps in stimulating and invigorating the blood circulation required for the healthy growth of hair. The most important part of hair-care is conditioning. It is a restorative routine.
If the hair is excessively stripped of moisture or oil due to harsh cleansing, sun or application of harsh chemicals such as perm lotions, etc. , the conditioning routine aims at restoring and correcting the imbalance. The kind of conditioning required depends entirely on the physical condition of the hair.
Swelling is one of the most damaging conditions of the hair. It loses flexibility, natural bounce, elasticity, and strength and is much easier to break. The acidic-based permanents will swell the hair in a moderate 15%-25%. The alkali-based permanents will swell the hair up to 300%. On our own hair there is a microscopic layer of natural oil which guards the hairs from swelling and keeps the hairs moisture at the usual levels (10-11.5%), even though the relative humidity in the air (25-90%) is much higher.
When chemically stripping the cuticles, the oily layer is stripped from the hair and it loses the natural protection. Swelling occurs on a regular basis and is one of the main reasons the hair is so vulnerable to breakage. Normal moisture content of hair is 10%-11.5% (This depends on many variables, such as moisture in the air, type of hair, previous chemical treatment, diet and much more).
When moisture decreases, hair becomes straw-like and is easy to identify such hairpieces even by nonprofessionals. Moisture is one of the most important factors in determining the physical (strength and elasticity) and esthetic properties (bounce, flexibility, etc.). When hair is fully wet, the elasticity may increase in 25%, but the strength will increase up to 300%. One major reason for hair breakage is the combing forces applied. While shampooing, towel drying and conditioning the hair, one must stroke the hair in one direction.
During combing, the hair is stretched and will break when stretched 30%-35% more than its original length. After the hair is stretched 17%-20% longer than the original length, there will be irreversible damage and it cannot bounce back to its natural length. For non-cuticle hair, the numbers are much scarier.
FUNDIMENTALS IN HAIR SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONERS
Hair has a negative charge. Shampoos have a negative charge so that the shampoo doesn’t adhere or absorb onto the hair. Conditioners to have a positive charge so that the conditioner does adhere and absorb onto the hair without leaving deposits. Hair products should have the same level of charge as hair.
Products for non-cuticle hair should have the same level of charge as non-cuticle hair.
Conditioners must reduce the friction between two strands of hair. For treating non-cuticle hair, they must isolate one strand of hair
without leaving deposits. Conditioners do not permanently increase strength or elasticity. It is a common fib that we all take at face value. Temporarily,
conditioners will deposit moisture and moisture will temporarily increase strength.
Regular shampoo must clean the surface of the cuticles, a tough protective layer consisting of 75%-80% protein. Regular shampoos on non-cuticle hair act similar to peroxide on an open wound. The detergents burn and dry out the hair from the inside. Shampoos for non-cuticle must clean the exposed layer usually found underneath the cuticles that are now stripped. The under layer (the “B” layer or exo-cuticle) is very delicate, which is why regular shampoos fail by cleaning too harshly.
The surfaces of cuticle and non-cuticle hair do not resemble each other and the difference between the two can be measured and must be measured in order to even begin discussing improving the issue of non-cuticle hair. Usually, non-cuticle hair appears shinier than regular hair and leads us to believe that it is healthier. The reason is that the smooth and even surface reflects light at a higher concentration and therefore is brighter. Cuticle hair with its scaled uneven surface scatters the light in wider angle of reflection, appearing duller.
Most hair we have worked with responds best to frequent cleansing.
This insures secure bonding, keeps the hair soft, and helps prevent “bunching” and tangling.
Braid your hair prior to washing and conditioning. Start washing at the scalp. Make sure you get the roots thoroughly clean, then work the shampoo down through the braided ends. You will need to rinse for a
longer period of time. Pay special attention to the root area and rinse until your scalp and hair is squeaky clean.
CONDITIONING:
There are several conditioners used by the recommended to our clients. The one thing to remember is to never, never, never apply any of them to the scalp. Begin the application 4 - 5 inches away from the attachments, the work down through the braided ends of your hair. Always use a “rinse-out” conditioner or reconstruct after shampooing. Sometimes, “leave-in” conditioners are also necessary, and should be applied in the same manner. If you simply “dump” these products on the top of your head, and work or rinse them through your hair, they will find their way to the points of attachment. The oils in these products will gradually permeate and soften the Fusion Bonds or soften and loosen the hair inside the crimp bead of the Crimped Method of the extensions. This could result in shedding or loss of the hair extensions, and create difficulty during the removal process. The same precautions apply when using “spray-on” conditioners. Again; check with your extension artist before applying any product to your hair that are not on your list of recommended products.
ALLERT:
Commercial hair needs conditioning often it does not receive the natural oils that your own hair does and requires conditioning with the right products daily. Often lighter hair has been pre-bleached and/or body waved for it’s desired style and this requires treatment for your extensions. We can only guarantee softness and tangle-free extension hair when you are using products we recommend and that have been purchased from HEDY-MARIE BOLLYWOOD HAIR EXTENSIONS
WATER:
Quality of water is another important factor which could noticeably affect the condition and appearance of your natural and extension hair. Soft water is preferable for washing all hair, natural and commercial. Washing with hard water (containing lots of chemicals and minerals, especially iron and/ or sulphur) may result in breakage, tangling and discoloration. If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, consult your extension artist to determine if you have a water related problem. You may find it necessary to treat the water supply that you are currently using to wash you hair.
Exposure to salt water may not affect the attachments, but it is very harsh on commercial hair. Wash and rinse immediately after submersing your hair in salt water. Avoid exposure to these types of water whenever possible. Don’t stop having fun, simply pile your hair on top of your head. You’ll look marvellous!
BRUSHING, SLEEPING, EXERCISE & OTHER MISC. MAINTENANCE
Having your extensions always look terrific requires proper grooming. This starts with brushing, combing, and separating them. The extensions will not “fall out” when these steps are done correctly. When you brush the extensions, hold the mid-shaft of the commercial hair and start brushing the ends first. If you have tangling, this will alleviate any discomfort and undue stress on your hair and scalp. You should brush and comb up to the point of attachment. Use your fingers to feel between each extension and any signs of matting. Do this on a daily basis. Your natural hair will grow out as normal, and you will decrease the risk of damage during the removal process. The proper styling tools are important. Consult your hair extension artist for the best combs and brushes for grooming your hair extensions. In most cases it is not advisable to use round brushes in long hair.
Many normal hair styling techniques can be used with commercial hair. Blow-drying and hot curling will not damage your extensions, however, do not place a curling iron or any other hot styling tool directly on the Fusion Bonds. This is an adhesive and will melt.
Braid your hair before sleeping or exercising to minimize tangles and reduce stress on the extensions. Satin pillowcases also help minimize tangles, so go ahead…splurge. You deserve it!
Never sleep on your extensions when they are wet. This is especially critical if your extensions are done with commercial Asian or Indonesian hair. These types of hair are highly processed. They may tangle to such a serious degree that complete removal of the extensions may be necessary. Severely tangled hair is usually impossible to comb out. European hair can also be susceptible to this type of tangling, so don’t risk it.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
If you are experiencing a problem with your extensions, call your hair artist immediately. Most serious complications can be averted if addressed right away. Do not attempt to remove or alter the extensions on your own or seek assistance from another hair stylist, salon, or extension artist without consulting your extension artist first. Your hair extension artist is not responsible for any damage sustained to your hair if you don not allow her to work with our extension exclusively, or by a colleague she has recommended. If, at any time, your extension artist makes a determination that wearing one or both of these systems are not a compatible extension process for your hair or scalp, they will suggest that the extensions be removed, either permanently or for a given period of time. In such a cases, removal of the extensions will be at the client’s expense. The artist reserves the right to refuse performing the service again, if removal of the extensions may not be necessary and the artist may opt to simply minimize the quantity of extensions or choose an alternative method.
Every client experiences hair extensions differently. For some clients it is an easy, relatively pain free experience. Even when properly applied, most clients experience an initial period of adjustment which may last 3 - 5 days. Soon after, the hair extensions will feel like your normal hair, only better!
In some rare cases, a client may experience a high level of discomfort due to an overly sensitive scalp. Removal of the extensions might be the only solution to eliminate this this client’s discomfort. In such a case, the extension artist and/ or salon is not responsible for financial reimbursement of this and related services. You, the client, have received the benefit. The extension service was provided in good faith and in reliance of both, the information provided by you on the Client Questionnaire, and the hair extension artist’s professional observations. Unfortunately, even the careful planning and thorough consultations, there is no way to guarantee that each and every client can tolerate wearing any form of hair extensions.
FUNDIMENTALS ON PROPERTIES OF HUMAN HAIR
The moisture content of non-cuticle hair is usually around 9.5%-10.0% This does not mean that you will not be able to find non-cuticle hair with over 10.5% moisture content (a very good figure incidentally, even for normal hair). Most of the hair ventilated into custom-made hairpieces sold in the US is sourced through India. Much of it is collected from monasteries located throughout the country. The largest and most famous monastery is in the south of India. Indian women donate their hair as an offering to their God as a sign of modesty. It is their understanding that it will be sold by the monks for a substantial sum of money that will be used to finance schools, hospitals and other publicly favored facilities. But not all hair that finds its way onto the market is the same - and this is where we encounter our first problem. During the collecting and sorting of the donated hair it is divided into two groups:
Remy hair: Hair that has been cut and maintained with the roots aligned and bound together at the top of the bundle. These bundles are carefully preserved throughout the export process and arrive at the factory still intact. Remy hair is relatively easy to process and the damage inflicted during de-cuticalization is slight.
Non-Remy hair: Hair that does not have its roots aligned. It may have been collected off the floor, or there may be some other reason they were unable to keep the roots together and running in the same direction. This hair is sold at a much cheaper price than Remy hair. Once the hair arrives at the factory, it is treated in a hydrochloric acid bath to remove the cuticle. A word of warning - hydrochloric acid is extremely hazardous. Non-Remy hair requires a higher concentration of acid since the cuticle runs in both directions. This frequently results in hair with very low moisture content that appears dry and straw-like. Moisture is critical to good-looking hair. Human hair usually contains 10.5% - 11% moisture (measured in a controlled environment of ISO 40% - 63% moisture). Non-Remy hair has trouble retaining this vital moisture. The de-cuticalization process itself is often conducted inefficiently. Some bundles of hair are only partially processed. Others are over-treated or under-treated, which contributes to tangling problems and limp or lifeless hair. Non-Remy hair dries at a much more rapid rate and quickly loses its luster and body. Non-Cuticle hair means hair that has been fundamentally damaged. If you use hair care products made for normal hair, you will be doing a major disservice. Regular conditioners are formulated to condition the cuticle layer, a very durable layer that is over 30% protein. Instead, you should be using a conditioner formulated for the under-layer without cuticle. This layer is made up of only 3% protein (10 times less!) and requires a more powerful lubricating system. The lack of a protective cuticle layer has other consequences. It allows everything to be easily absorbed into the hair – and lets vital moisture out again. Cuticle and Non-Cuticle hair are different product types with different maintenance needs. Each one requires its own specialist product.
Moisture is the single most important factor in determining the way your hair looks. When moisture drops below 10-10.2% (depending on the type of hair and the level of environmental humidity), hair will look like brittle straw as opposed to supple green grass. The critical moisture level is the difference between a fresh slice of bread and one left on the counter for 3 days. In the example of the straw or the stale slice of bread, if we apply the slightest pressure, they will break. The same pressure on the fresh slice of bread or the green grass shows us how malleable these materials could be. Likewise, any pressure put on dry human hair, as opposed to well-moisturized hair, will result in breakage. Dry hair leads to breakage, especially with repeated combing applied in a localized area [the crown]. Moisture = StrengthAn average strength properties reading for Indian non-cuticle hair with a diameter of 0.055mm would be 0.22 gn/m². An average result for the same type of hair from the same bundles, but completely soaked with tap water would be 0.66 gn/m². A normal value for such hair would be around 0.32 gn/m². (gn/m² stands for Giganewtons per square meter, which is a measure of pressure. For human hair, these figures explain the fiber’s strength – the amount of pressure it can withstand before breaking.)
The important lesson here is that moisture - any type of moisture - will increase the strength of the hair by up to 300%. Tests conducted have shown that plain water is as effective as any conditioner or leave-in moisturizer. For example, try wearing your jeans after washing them, while they are still soaking wet and feel the roughness of the fabric. This has to do with the swelling and increased strength of the fabric when wet. Until the water evaporates, the denim will be significantly stronger. The same goes for hair. The role of conditionersConditioner will add strength, but only temporarily, just as water will. Now we are getting to one of the major trade offs between conditioner and water: Water will evaporate much faster, but will not leave deposits that will weigh down your client’s hair. Conditioner will evaporate much more slowly and contribute to the strength of the hair for a longer time, but will leave deposits that may weight down the hair. In hot desert climates such as in Arizona and Nevada, it is extremely important to maintain the moisture of the hair, especially if the client spends any time in the sun. Just a few minutes of ultra-violet exposure on treated hair is enough to make a significant impact. In these conditions, a very light leave-in conditioner is highly recommended. If the client is not inclined to buy more products, give or sell him a very small mist bottle (2 oz will be sufficient) filled with water and have him mist his hair a few times a day.
FUNDIMENTALS OF HAIR DEFINITIONS
However, as an educational service… and perhaps a warning… I’d like to offer a brief primer on the advantages and disadvantages of each type of hair and explain the cost differences and the reasons for them. I’ll also answer the question, “As long as it feels good, looks good and doesn’t tangle, why do I care where the hair originated?
The first question all new customers ask is where did the hair come from?
· Origin: China, Eastern Europe, Russia and India
· Grade: Cuticle, Non-Cuticle, Virgin, Processed, Single Drawn, Double Drawn, Remy and Non-Remy
· Type: Caucasian, Asian
ORIGIN
Chinese Hair (aka Asian Hair): A thick and coarse fiber that is naturally straight and dark brown to black in color.
Advantages: High Quantity, Durability and Low Cost. It is the strongest human hair and is able to withstand multiple chemical and mechanical processes. It is easily mass-produced making it a low cost item. It is the most popular hair in the industry because it is comfortable to process at the manufacturing level and there is no shortage of supply. Ventilating a hairpiece does not require as much skill or care as with cuticle hair.
Disadvantages: Poor Quality. Chinese hair requires extensive chemical processing to output hair that simulates European texture, color and body. The majority of the hair is collected and processed as double drawn, non-Remy hair that requires heavy-duty chemicals to remove cuticle layers. It is still at a high risk for severe tangling problems because the cuticles are large and the layers are dense. The thick strands reflect light differently and appear 3 times as large next to Caucasian hair.
Common Use: Inexpensive off-shelf wigs, hairpieces and machine made hair extensions.
Indian Hair (aka Asian Hair, Italian Hair): A variety of fiber types from fine and straight, medium thick with body wave and curly to thick coarse hair. “Italian hair” is actually Indian hair that has been processed in Italy or Spain and then sold at premium prices.
Advantages: High Quantity, Good Quality, Variety and Low Manufacturing Cost. Indian hair is popular to use for custom made hairpieces because it can be made to resemble European hair. Although prices for Remy Indian hair increase every 2-3 months, it is still available in the less expensive non-Remy form. The Indian hair fiber is small in diameter compared to Chinese hair and after chemical processing can feel and look just like European hair. Finally, a great attribute of Indian hair is that it comes in a full range of textures and body.
Disadvantages: Low Quality and Higher Retail Cost. Indian hair still requires quite a lot of chemical processing to make it appear as European hair. And the efforts to maintain the integrity of Remy hair and/or buy the best quality in India can increase prices closer to European hair. To reduce time and materials, many manufacturers choose to work with non-Remy Indian hair, which must undergo the same processes as Chinese hair that results in a poorer quality. Indian hair is also known to have split ends; lice and most exporters handle the hair badly.
Common Use: The Remy hair is often produced as European or Italian hair for custom-made wigs and hair extensions. The non-Remy hair is processed for custom-made hairpieces and less expensive wigs and machine and hand made hair extensions.
European Hair (aka Russian Hair, Caucasian Hair): A fine to medium density fiber that is naturally straight to slight wave and available in a variety of natural colors, most commonly dark blonds to medium browns. The Virgin colors will often be streaked with lighter shades or the ends will be much lighter than the roots due to weathering.
Advantages: High Quality. True Caucasian hair, whether originating from Russia, Eastern Europe or even the United States, is the best quality for the European and American market. The fine textures and natural colors eliminate the need for extensive processing and can often be sold as is (virgin hair). It easily matches the density of Caucasian customers so the hairpiece or extension blends in with their own hair.
Disadvantages: Low Quantity and High Cost. It has always been an availability problem and is becoming more difficult to source lengths longer than 15 inches and of a good quality. Limited availability makes the European hair a valuable item. The care that must be taken at the manufacturing level, as the fiber is fragile in comparison to Indian and Chinese hair, adds to the overall cost of working with European hair. Usually those that choose to work with this hair want it as close to its virgin state as possible, so much care and skill must be taken when ventilating a wig or hairpiece to keep the roots in one direction and properly trimmed to avoid tangles.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Preferred hair type by production companies
for the film industry.
GRADE
Cuticle Hair (aka Remy Hair, Virgin Hair): Cuticle hair can refer to all hair, no matter the origin. It defines the state of the fiber and quality. The cuticle layers have not been chemically altered and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running opposite directions.
Advantages: High Quality. Hair with cuticles usually has the feel and look of natural hair. It retains dye colors and perms better than processed hair and lasts longer through normal wear and tear because the cuticles act as a protective layer for the rest of the fiber.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Tangles. Cuticle hair is considered a higher grade of hair and the time and care during production make it a more expensive hair. If not properly handled or cared for before and during the life of the hair replacement or extension, it is prone to tangle. (Although it costs the manufacturer more to process hair to non-cuticle, many have the opinion that cuticle hair is more expensive. They are confusing the cost of ventilating cuticle hair with the hair process cost. Non-cuticle hair is a more expensive hair but easier to ventilate. Cuticle hair is a less expensive hair but requires greater skill to ventilate.)
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions. Can only be manufactured by factories that know how to work with cuticle hair.
Non-Cuticle Hair (aka Processed Hair): This hair type can also refer to all hair no matter the origin, including European. The cuticles have been chemically processed to remove the first few layers and fuse the remaining layers. The roots and tips can be mixed in opposite directions.
Advantages: Low Hairpiece Manufacturing Cost and No Tangles. Less labor time when making hairpieces or wigs and less hair required per unit. If cuticle process is done correctly, this is a permanent process and used to prevent tangles even if the roots and tips are mixed in opposite directions.
Disadvantages: High Hair Manufacturing Cost and Poor Quality. Unfortunately, this type of hair is usually mass-produced in large factories using harsh chemicals that greatly degrade the hair. Also the hair purchased for non-cuticle hair is usually non-Remy hair. When the chemical process is applied poorly and the hair starts to tangle, it tangles severely. Dye colors and perms do not last and the overall damage to the hair creates a very short life for this type of hair.
Common Use: Low to medium priced hairpieces, machine-made extensions and wigs.
Virgin Hair (aka European Hair, Cuticle Hair): All hair types no matter the origin. Usually refers to European hair as Chinese and Indian hair is rarely sold in their original colors and textures. This is hair that has not been chemically altered at any time and care must be taken to keep roots and tips from running in opposite directions.
Advantages: High Availability and Low Hair Manufacturing Costs. When it is truly virgin hair, the manufacture has very little preparation to perform before selling it. The lack of chemical processing leaves the hair in a healthy and natural state resulting in a longer life for the finished unit.
Disadvantages: Low Availability and High Cost. The dwindling availability of good virgin European hair, especially in lengths longer than 15” has made it an expensive commodity. There is still quite a bit of hair to find, but most of it is very old hair that has a musty odor and tangles very easily. Unfortunately, most Russian exporters are selling this type of hair.
Common Use: High priced custom wigs, hairpieces and hand made hair extensions.
Processed Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Non-Remy Hair, and Asian Hair): All hair types can be chemically processed (cuticles, color, texture). Usually the term processed refers to non-cuticle hair and its most common form is non-Remy hair. If handled well by the hair manufacturer, processed hair can retain much of its original quality properties.
Advantages: Variety. The hair manufacturer is able to chemically alter the cuticles, color and texture of the hair to simulate European grade hair and offer multiple color and textures to the customer.
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Costs and Low Quality. The hair manufacturer must apply multiple chemical processes to the hair. Each process lowers the quality of the hair and shortens the life of the finished piece.
Common Use: All types of wigs, hairpieces and extensions.
Single Drawn Hair (aka Cuticle Hair, Virgin Hair, Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that appears like a ponytail because all the short lengths of regrowth hair are kept in the bundle. Many a novice buyer thinks the shorter lengths are split ends. Different manufacturers sell bundles of hair in single drawn form, but sometimes split the percentage of short hair and sell at a higher rate. They may decide to take out perhaps 50% of the shortest lengths and leave the rest in the bundle.
Advantages: High Availability, High Quality and Low Manufacturing Cost. Single Drawn Remy hair is much easier to process the cuticles than Double Drawn Non-Remy hair because it requires less chemicals and processing time. This leads to a higher quality type of hair. The shorter lengths make the bundles appear tapered, therefore more natural. (Many prefer this type of hair. For example, one famous actress insisted that her wig be made with single drawn hair because the shorter lengths give it the perfect look.)
Disadvantages: High Manufacturing Cost. The ratio of short hairs to longer hair within a bundle is usually greater, which causes
a high amount of loss and waste. The manufacturer must purchase higher quantities to account for the wastage.
Common Use: Medium to high quality hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions.
Double Drawn Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Non-Remy Hair): A bundle of hair, no matter its origin or grade that is all one length. There are no shorter lengths of hair present, which creates a very smooth and polished look. Due to expense and availability with Remy hair, Non-Remy Processed hair is usually sold double drawn. The term refers to a mechanical process that draws out all the shorter lengths from a bundle, and then draws again to realign the top of the bundle.
Advantages: High Quality for Remy Hair, Low Cost and High Availability for Non-Remy Hair. One length creates a seamless silky curtain of hair that looks picture perfect. It gives the illusion of very healthy hair that has never suffered normal wear and tear.
Disadvantages: High Cost and Low Availability for Remy Hair. Hair grows and breaks and regrows so that a natural head of hair contains several different lengths of hair. When a ponytail of hair is donated or sold, the bundle tapers down to a point. If the bundle is 18” in length and you draw out only the strands that are 18”, you are left with only a few strands of hair that represent maybe 10-15% of the bundle. The rest of the bundle contains the shorter regrowth hair. It would take 10 kilos of single drawn 18” hair to make 1 kilo of double drawn 18” hair. This makes it very expensive and undesirable for the manufacturer who is now left with 9 kilos of shorter hair. It is much more cost effective to offer double drawn non-Remy hair, but the blunt one length look makes the hair appear synthetic.
Common Use: From Non-Remy hair: Low cost, off the shelf hairpieces and wigs. From Remy hair: High priced custom wigs and hairpieces.
Remy Hair (aka Cuticle Hair): Hair that was carefully bundled at the roots from the moment it is cut from donor and maintained throughout production – the cuticles run in same direction. This hair is usually processed to non-cuticle, but the root direction is maintained.
Advantages: Low Hair Manufacturing Cost, High Quality. The cuticles are not always removed for Remy hair, therefore lowering productions costs and time. If the cuticles are processed, it is much easier than non-Remy hair due to less chemicals and processing time. The reduced chemical processing reduces the level of damage that leads to a relatively higher percentage of moisture, as opposed to other types of chemically treated hair. This prevents the straw-like appearance that happens with first few months.
Disadvantages: High Cost, Low Availability and High Hair Manufacturing Costs. For unknown reasons, the temples that collect the hair do not take care to keep the roots and ends sorted correctly; therefore the resource of non-Remy is much more than Remy hair. Remy hair with cuticles require smaller batches and careful processing during production to avoid matting and tangling the hair during bath circulations.
Common Use: High Quality, custom-made hairpieces, wigs and hair extensions. (Our lab tests on many hairpieces submitted to us by customers have shown that the units were actually made with non-cuticle non-Remy hair, although they were told that it was Remy hair.)
Non-Remy Hair (aka Non-Cuticle Hair, Processed Hair, Asian Hair): Hair that was cut and collected from the floor so that roots and ends are mixed. To solve the inevitable tangling, the cuticles must be chemically removed. Non-Remy hair is sold in Double Drawn form.
Advantages: Low Cost. The reasons factories in the Orient prefer to buy this type of hair are for two reasons: 1) It is much cheaper than Remy hair, 2) you can bleach and dye several kilos of hair in one batch without worrying about matting during circulation, thereby lowering the manufacturing costs significantly.
Disadvantages: Low Quality. The hair must undergo heavy chemical processes to remove cuticles. As a result the hair becomes very dry over a short period of time. The proceeding bleaching and dyeing reduces the diameter of the hair, creates dry course hair that eventually splits and cracks along the fiber. The tips are already vulnerable naturally due to years of growth and weathering. In Non-Remy hair the tips are running both directions so the entire bundle suffers split ends and breakage. There is also uneven distribution of fiber thickness since some roots are at the top and some at the bottom of the bundle, which makes it resistant to combing.
Common Use: Medium to low priced hairpieces, wigs and extensions.
TYPE
Caucasian: Russian Hair. Very small resources in Poland and Romania.
Asian: Chinese and Indian Hair. Very small resources in Philippines, Vietnam and other small countries, but the quantities are so small that they are not really considered.
Clearly hair that is intended only to be worn for a short period cannot cost as much as hair which was expected to be permed, color corrected, and thickened routinely over its 12 to 18 month life span. Cheaper hair is likely to be lower quality hair. So is it better to rotate poorer quality hair more frequently or pay a little more for premium hair that will last longer? It is not only the issue of longevity. A poor quality product will always be a poor quality product.
Hair factories have a choice of many different grades and sources of human hair. The highest grade is of European origin, usually from Eastern Europe. This is the most expensive hair available anywhere and the longer lengths are limited in supply. Next comes Indian hair, which in many respects, with the exception of color, can resemble European hair. Finally there is a Chinese hair, known for its strength and affordability.
Top quality European hair can cost up to 10 or 15 times as much as the cheapest Chinese hair. Expectedly, the price differences are most dramatic in the longer lengths. Price variations for short hair are much closer. The cost of goods is not the only consideration. Factory managers also have to maintain close relationships with their overseas suppliers and the cost of travel, ongoing contact, and the business infrastructure necessary to accurately place and track regional orders can be considerable. So the search for economies is inevitable and you need to know where those savings are likely to happen – and who is going to be affected by them.
A client who is replacing his hair system every 4 to 12 weeks is unlikely to receive exactly the same hair he got in the past. Professionals should be aware of those differences even if their client is not. If the client used to wear European or Indian hair, the first point of difference may be the diameter (denier) of their new hair. The hair that is most likely to be used in high-turnover system comes from China and has a thickness of 0.1 mm and up on average. As a result, it is not going to have the same texture, luster and manageability as European hair, or even Indian hair, even after decuticalisation.
Furthermore, it is likely that the color palette has had to be changed and this means removing much of the original, dark hair pigmentation and re-dyeing the hair, usually with a fabric die, to the desired shade. While most factories have perfected this technology, it is nonetheless an assault on the hair, and it becomes more vulnerable no matter how gentle the color correction process may have been.
But there is a bigger risk. In order to handle the increasing volume of hair orders, ever-accelerating deadlines and the constant pressure to reduce costs, factories may seek operating economies, some of which may compromise hair quality. For example, small, undisciplined factories could extend the interval between changes in the acid baths during the removal of the hair cuticle.
This may seem trivial, but there is a minimum concentration of active ingredients necessary to effectively remove the cuticle. Anything less will fail to soften the ragged ragged cuticle edges. Any more, and it would dissolve away the hair’s entire outer protective layer.
When a factory tries to cut down on chemical ingredients, labor, or quality control procedures, the effects may not be seen until the hair system has been worn by its new owner for several weeks. If they are lucky, the poorer hair quality may not be noticed at all before the hair system is replaced. However, it only takes one or two dissatisfied clients and years of goodwill will go out the window!
HAIR CONDITION
The first priority is to instruct your clients to maintain their hair better. Teach them to use the right shampoos and conditioners. Unfortunately, in today's saturated market, it is difficult for most people to determine what products are actually beneficial to the hair and which ones are damaging. For example, SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) is a harsh detergent which actually dries the hair, yet most shampoos contain SLS, sometimes in concentrations of up to 10% by volume. Turning to conditioners, most of those sold to the public are not appropriate for the hair used in hair systems because of a marked difference in the surface energy of hair that no longer has its cuticle. Using the wrong conditioner will coat and weigh down the hair without delivering the expected benefits. Contrary to popular belief, the key function of a conditioner is to reduce friction between adjacent hairs, preventing the loss of vital hair cells, the generation of electricity both of which impact the hair's longevity and manageability. Moisture retention is a benefit that was added at a later stage in the development of conditioners as scientists came to understand the physics of hair growth. Even today's best conditioner can only retain moisture in top quality hair for 2 to 3
hours. Damaged hair, or over-processed hair may lose its moisture in half that time. However there are a few conditioners specifically formulated for processed hair, but without your advice, your clients are unlikely to be able to find them.
If your client plans to buy a conditioner in his or her local drug store or supermarket, encourage them to select one that states on the label that it is for "Light blond hair" or for "Damaged hair”. The surface energy of light blonde hair at 36-38 mega neutrons approximates the surface energy of processed hair (42 mega neutrons). For comparison, the surface energy of regular, growing hair is 30-32 mega neutrons. A sophisticated (obsessional?) client might try calling his or her cosmetic company to request the surface energy range of the hair their shampoo or conditioner is designed to react with. Alternatively, they could request the surface tension of the shampoo or conditioner itself to determine its compatibility with their own hair type. Unfortunately most of the time, they will find that the manufacturer does not have this information and probably does not even understand the question. This reflects the fact that most research dollars today go into fragrance, color and other cosmetic attributes, not the science of hair care.